The food situation in Cinque Terre is complicated. The villages are famous, which means restaurants have learned that most visitors won't return — and price and quality have adjusted accordingly. But underneath the tourist-facing economy, there is a real Ligurian food culture in these five villages, and it's absolutely worth finding. The rule we give all our guests: walk away from any restaurant displaying photographs of the food, a menu in more than two languages, or a host

Genova has a food culture so specific, so local, so completely its own, that even many Italians from other regions don't fully understand it. This is not a city of elaborate restaurant dining. It's a city of daily ritual food — eaten standing up, wrapped in paper, at a counter, without ceremony. Focaccia: Not What You Think You Know Genovese focaccia — focaccia genovese — is nothing like the thick, oily versions found elsewhere in Italy. It's thin, crisp at the edges, soft in

There is a moment, usually around 6pm, when Genova transforms. The tourists head back to their hotels. The cruise passengers return to their ships. And the city — the real city — opens up. This is the hour locals call aperitivo. And if you miss it, you've missed Genova. What Is Aperitivo in Genova? Aperitivo is not happy hour. It's not a deal. It's a ritual — a social institution built into the Ligurian way of life. From 6 to 8pm, bars across the city set out small bites of l

Genova's food scene is one of Italy's best kept secrets. From the original pesto to fresh focaccia and world-class seafood, here is your complete guide to eating in Genova like a local.